What About the Birds?

Have you ever thought of how wild birds can handle the cold weather? Another day I was having my breakfast watching the birds from my window and this thought came to my mind.

During the cold winter months we use blankets and stay indoors where we have heat. What about the birds? I decided to do a search through the internet to get some knowledge about these little creatures that look so fragile. I learned a lot of things and now I would like to share them with you.

I learned that they don't need us humans to help them survive; just like most animals, they can defend themselves against the harsh cold weather. Some birds migrate during the winter season to places with warmer temperatures. Usually the birds that migrate are insect eating and they have to migrate because the insects dormant in the winter.

The other birds that eat berries, fruits and seeds such as woodpeckers, chickadees, nuthatches, grosbeaks, finches, red polls, crossbills, snow buntings, cardinals,waxwings, magpies, jays, ravens, crows, house sparrows, and starlings stay in the cold winter.

Birds eat continuously during the winter to store up fat. They use this extra fat at night to create heat. When birds don't find a bird feeder with sunflower seeds, safflower seeds, suet or peanuts they eat berries from the trees such as holly, hawthorn, crab apple, birch and elder. These threes produce small red berries which are an emergency source of food for birds int he winter time.

If you decide to help your feathered friends this winter, provide them with a bird feeder. Look for feeders that have drain holes to keep the seeds dry after the rain or after a harsh snowy weather. If you have an open bird feeder, keep your feeder under your porch or in a location that you know the seeds will be dry and the wind will not blow the seeds away. Just keep in mind that open bird feeders attract squirrels and they will enjoy the bird's food too.

Some suggestions for squirrel proof bird feeders are the Absolute II Squirrel Proof Birdfeeder, the Birdseed Vault II Squirrel Proof Feeder and the Super Stop-A-Squirrel Proof Bird Feeder. They are made of durable metal which can resist harsh weather and keep the squirrels out of the bird food.They have drain holes to keep the seeds dry. They also have an adjustable perch so you can watch your favorite birds eating their scrumptious meal. The adjustable perches allow you to set the weight so you can choose if a larger bird will be able to access the bird seeds.

Birds grow additional feathers in the fall which fluff up and create pockets of warm air next to the skin. The feathers are used as insulation to keep them warm during the cool days and cold nights and to protect them from getting wet when it rains or snows. They also help to keep their eggs and their little ones warm. Their feathers can be used as camouflage to protect themselves against predators.

A way to protect the birds from getting wet and cold would be by providing a bird house to keep them warm. A bird house is a safe place to lay their eggs, raise their babies and to protect them against predators.

To attract birds to your bird house you should place a bird house in the right spot such as large trees, (Preferably 15 feet above the ground.) on a metal pole far from bird feeders and under the eaves of your house. The reason to place a bird house far from a bird feeder is because the food can attract predators such as cats, chipmunks, cowbirds, crows, falcons,grackles, hawks, jays, owls, raccoons, roadrunners, snakes, and squirrels who will eat the bird food, make the birds food and even eat the little birds before and after they hatch.

Birds have a unique way to nest that's different from other birds. When positioning your birdhouse in your yard or garden do a search to find out how to attract your favorite birds. Songbirds such as white-throated sparrow, painted bunting, northern cardinal, like to nest in shrub style vegetation.Other birds such as the pine warbler, yellow-throated warbler,chickadees, prefer to nest 15 feet above the ground. Birds such as bluebirds and the nuthatches prefer to nest in a abandoned woodpecker holes.

When buying a bird house look for the ones that have a natural look to them. Birds like birdhouses that resemble nature over a bird house with a fresh coat of paint. I recommend taking a look at our natural looking bird houses.The El Madrid Bird House and the Seville Bird House are modeled after Spanish styled homes built during the housing boom in Florida between1923 and 1929. They are hand crafted in wood and resemble nature.Another bird house I would recommend is the Moose Lodge Wood Birdhouse,which is created of wood and moss.

You have now provided your feathered friends with a bird feeder and a bird house. What could you possibly do for them now? Offer them fresh water by providing a birdbath. Keep your bird bath clean and fill it with fresh water often. The best location to place a bird bath is between trees and scrubs.

You may live in an area where the weather is freezing. You should buy a heated birdbath to keep the water from freezing up. Some products such as our Rocky Mountain Bird Bath with heater and dripper and the Heated Bird Bath 20 inch will keep the water from freezing.

I am glad that I did this search and I got the knowledge about these little creatures. Now I know that I can do something to help them pass through the harsh weather that will come.

What about you? Can you make a difference in a bird's life?

Sick Pet Bird Care

The article is directed specifically to pet bird owners and is intended for their use as a basic how to guide on caring properly for a sick or injured bird. Please always follow the advice of your veterinarian & do not use this article as a means of avoiding a hands on veterinary examination. The key idea of this article is to reduce any and all stress to your recovering bird.

1. WARMTH: Ill birds will sit with their feathers fluffed in an attempt to conserve heat. The effort to conserve heat places an additional burden on the already debilitated bird. Your veterinarian will determine if your bird requires hospitalization, but if home care is acceptable, I recommend creating a tent to keep your bird warm. A birds natural temperature is much higher then ours at anywhere from 103F-106F. Therefore, what often feels warm to us can be chilly to them and this is particularly true in sick birds. A simple way of providing heat is to cover 1/2 of the cage with a blanket and place a heat lamp on the other side as a heat source. Generally speaking we keep our sick birds at environmental temperatures ranging form 85-95F. This will vary greatly with the individual bird so it is important to monitor your pet to ensure that you are providing the correct temperature and of course seek your veterinarian's advice. A bird that is too hot will have very sleek feathers held tightly to the body, will hold its wings (shoulders) slightly away from its body and may pant. If you see any of these signs your bird is much too warm and the environmental temperature should be reduced accordingly. For night warmth I recommend using a red light. Ill birds, just like ill people, require rest and if kept under bright lights all night they will become sleep deprived. Also, during the day it is important to provide light so that they may be encouraged to eat and can be monitored. Therefore, the entire cage should never be covered during the day. I don't recommend heating pads because it is very difficult to regulate the temperature. If a bird is not perching and sitting directly on the pad they can easily become overheated or burned. And in my experience baby birds that are raised on heating pad quickly become dehydrated and again are subject to burns.

2. STRESS: Debilitated birds must be kept in a stress free situation. Often what appears normal to us can cause stress in our feathered friends. I suggest taking a close look at your bird's environment with a critical eye to determine what may be stress factors. Some common ones include, the bird in the center of house traffic with no chance to rest, cigarette smoke or aerosols in the birds environment, lack of darkness/sleep time at night, other pets, small children, too much visual stimuli (cage directly in front of a window), competition from cage mates, too much handling, poor nutrition and temperature extremes (such as birds kept in kitchens). I recommend that sick birds be left in their cage and allowed to calmly recuperate. Think of this as bed rest for your pet! Too much handling can stress the bird and will require the bird to use additional calories. If the bird is housed with other birds, it is usually best to remove the bird to a single cage. Some birds can become too stressed when separated from the colony so you should seek your veterinarian's advice on how to cage your sick pet. However, generally removing the bird from the group will reduce the stress of competition for nutrition and allow for medicating easily and better monitoring. Of course, if infectious disease is suspected, then the pet must be moved into an isolation cage and at least a separate room - preferably a separate house with no other birds.

3. NUTRITION: If your doctor made dietary recommendations, now is not the time to implement change. Changes in the type of diet will cause enormous stress to your bird and should be started when the bird has recovered. Always discuss how and when to made dietary changes with your pet's doctor. Generally, I recommend offering all the bird's favorite foods during illness because many ill birds become anorexic and can be lost due to starvation. If your bird is normally a seedeater but not currently eating, try placing millets sprays in the cage which most birds enjoy. The important thing to remember is that it has taken months to years for the bird to become malnourished and this cannot be corrected in a day or a week. Slow changes are essential for the ill bird. If you are unable to get your pet to eat he/she should be hospitalized for gavage feeding and further care. Birds have a high metabolic rate and can quickly starve. Thus, a pet bird that stops eating should always be assumed to be critically ill, certainly the potential for fatality is present. Lastly, if your bird is a hand reared baby and is not eating due to illness, you can often revert them back to hand feeding (syringe feeding) during the convalescent period. A good hand rearing formula should be used. The formula should be mixed with hot water as directed on the bag and offered to the bird. Do not force the bird to eat. Pet owners should never force feed their birds. A bird can easily aspirate (inhale food) and develop pneumonia and force-feeding causes enormous stress to your bird. Reverting to hand feeding is only of use for those birds that willingly accept feeding from the syringe. Also, if hand feeding, the formula must be warmed correctly (follow the advice on the formula bag and that of your veterinarian) to avoid food burns from too hot formula and crop stasis from formula fed at too cool a temperature.

4. MEDICATING: Routes: 1. Injectable, 2. In water or Food, 3. Topical, 4. Oral I prefer not to medicate in the pet's water or the food. Medication given in this way often causes a change in the taste and can potentially cause the bird to reduce their food and water intake. Also, when medication is placed in the food or water it is very difficult to determine how much of the medication the pet has actually ingested. Thus, in my opinion the best routes are injectable and oral. Topical medication often is not of use to the pet and will cause oily feathers.

Prior to taking your bird home, you should be shown how to appropriately medicate your bird by the doctor or technician. Briefly, the patient should be held in an upright position and the syringe containing the medication should be gently introduced from the left side of the mouth and angled to the right side. Most birds will attempt to bite the syringe allowing it to be easily introduced into the oral cavity. Slowly depress the plunger on the syringe to dispense the medication into the lower portion of the beak. If the pet struggles while medicating, stop for a few moments and then try again. You should advise your veterinarian if you are unable to medicate your pet. Medication can be mixed with a flavoring agent (FlavorX), which will help to reduce some resistance. Occasionally, depending on the reason for treatment, your doctor may be able to give a long acting injection in place of oral medication but this has limited uses and thus is not available for every pet.

5. FOLLOW-UP EXAMINATIONS: As soon as illness was detected in your pet he/she was taken to the veterinarian for a through physical examination and diagnostic work-up including laboratory testing. Unfortunately, many people will see that their pet is improving and don't realize that a follow-up exam is necessary. I always suggest rechecking the patient at variable intervals depending on the state of debilitation. The recheck exam allows your doctor to assess the patient's response to treatment and the owner's compliance with instructions. Many times in the course of treating an exotic pet the treatment must be altered somewhat to ensure the best response. These rechecks are also used as a way of reinforcing the changes needed for the bird to remain healthy. Additionally, lab values can be rechecked to ensure that the patient is truly recovering and not just feeling well enough again to resume hiding any weakness. I can't stress the importance of this follow up enough, it is extremely important to the health of your bird.

A Few Words In Praise of Birds

Why do birds appeal to us? Most people enjoy the sight of birds, even people who have never been active birdwatchers. Although birds are less like us in appearance and habits than our fellow mammals, birds undeniably hold a special place in our hearts.

One reason that birds capture our imaginations is that they can fly, while we remain trapped here on earth. What child hasn't watched a bird fly overhead and dreamt of being up there in the sky flying alongside? What adults have not, at one time or another, wished that they could take wing and fly away from all of their everyday troubles and cares? Birds are natural symbols of freedom and escape. After all, what could better encapsulate our vision of pure freedom than the ability to fly off into the sunset ?

Birds can soar overhead and they can also cover great distances. They are privy to a "bird's eye view" of a single building or a park, or an entire city or landscape, making them a perfect metaphor for obtaining a fresh perspective on a situation, or for taking a larger view of an issue.

Birds often symbolize other things, as well, such as human character traits and qualities. There's the proud peacock, the noble eagle, the thieving magpie, squabbling crows, and billing and cooing love birds. Gliding swans are the perfect picture of grace and elegance in motion. The hawk is a symbol of war, the dove a symbol of peace.

What else attracts us to birds? Birds have feathers, soft to the touch and a joy to look at. Plumage seems to come in an infinite variety of lovely colors and patterns, from the subtle, earthy tones of the common house sparrow to the outrageous, iridescent regalia of the showy peacock. Birds are beautiful works of art, signed by nature. Their plumage adds color and spectacle to a humdrum world. Their colors may also suggest many different locales and associations to us.

For example, those small, round, brown sparrows are homey, comforting and familiar to those of us who live in temperate climates. They are our backyard friends and neighbors. American cardinals and blue jays are highly colored, cheerful sights to behold on gray days, from the tips of their tail feathers to the fanciful crests on their heads. They are a bit more exotic, yet they are still familiar backyard friends. Then there are those birds who live in far off exotic places, such as African pink flamingos and tropical parrots, who sport wonderful tropical colors. We love them, not only for their magnificent colors, but also for their association with far-flung lands and exotic adventures.

Birds also come in a great variety of shapes and sizes, which further adds to their appeal. We can relate to them, in so far as they, and we, have two eyes, one mouth and bilateral symmetry. Yet, they are also very unlike us. They have protruding beaks, from the sparrow's tiny jabbing beak to the toucan's enormous appendage. They have wings, more unlike human arms than those of other mammals, or even of reptiles. In fact, when their wings are folded against their sides, birds appear to have no arms at all. They also have thin, bare legs and they have claws. Their heads and necks flow smoothly into their bodies. Their forms create graceful outlines, whether round like a chubby European robin, long like an African parrot, or sleek like a regal swan.

Yes, birds are beautiful to look at, but the beauty of birds is not confined to the visual aspects of shape and color alone, because birds also fill the air with music. They seem to offer us their song simply to entertain us, and they ask for nothing in return. Like a garden bursting with colorful flowers, the fantastic colors and songs of birds seem frivolous and out of place in a world full of harsh realities. It seems as though they were put on earth expressly to make life more beautiful. They were not, of course. Their color and song serve biological ends in the process of natural selection, but that does not prevent us from enjoying such sights and sounds. We can listen in on their free concerts and derive pleasure and serenity from the experience. We can also be amused when a few species of birds even mimic our own speech.

Another characteristic of birds that we humans respond to is the fact that they build nests. They seem so industrious and we watch with wonder as each type of bird builds its own species-specific nest, ranging from a simple assemblage of twigs to an intricately woven masterpiece of craftmanship. "Nest" is such a cozy word. Birds build their cozy nests, care for their young, and raise their families, all in the course of a single spring or summer. We admire their patience and devotion and attentive care to their offspring. We observe and marvel at a parent bird's countless trips to and from the nest to diligently feed the helpless chicks. Birds provide us with fine role models for parenting.

Yes, birds are homebodies during the nesting season, but they also migrate. Birds are free to come and go and many cover vast distances each year, as they travel between their summer and their winter homes. They are social creatures, moving in flocks and creating great spectacles as they fly. A glimpse of a V-shaped flock of geese passing overhead thrills us and stirs something in us. We admire their strength and endurance in carrying out such grueling journeys year after year. We envy them, too, for they are free to go beyond mere political boundaries and to cross entire continents. We up north are sorry to see them part each autumn and we are heartened to see them return each spring. The return of such birds as the swallows signals the return of spring, with its promise of birth and renewal.

Each spring we are able to welcome them back into our midsts, for nearly everywhere that humans live, birds live also. Birds cover the earth. There is such a diversity of bird species to fill each ecological niche on earth and to contribute to its balance by doing such things as eating insects and dispersing plant seeds. There are the ducks and moorhens of rural ponds. There are birds who live in the forests. There are birds in the mountains and birds in the deserts. The forbidding oceans have their hardy puffins and pelicans. Even frozen, icy places have their own birds, the lovable penguins.

Birds adapt to so many different habitats and situations, including human environments. The often ignored pigeon is a beautiful bird. (I have cared for and been grateful to have known many individual pigeons over the years.) As a species, they have managed to adapt to modern cityscapes, substituting cliff-like building ledges and bridge girders for their ancestral cliffs of rock. Other bird species may be less tolerant of such disturbances and avoid the prying eyes of humans.

Wherever they choose to live, birds remain symbols of untamed nature, surviving despite man's interference with their habitats. They remain proud and free to the present day. They are also a living link to the mysterious and fascinating history of life on our planet, as birds are the surviving heirs to the dinosaurs. One look at unfeathered baby birds, with their oversized beaks and feet, and it is easy to see the dinosaur in them.

Each of us may have our own reason, or combination of reasons, for loving birds, but their appeal is indisputable and universal. Birds represent the perfect blend of beauty, strength, grace and endurance, from the cuteness of a tiny sparrow to the majesty of an imposing raptor. Birds fill both the eye and the ear with beauty. We enjoy them. We admire them. Sometimes we envy them. They add appreciably to the quality of our lives and to the diversity of life on earth and the world would be a smaller, sadder, emptier place without them.

Feeding Wild Birds Responsibly

On March 19, 2009, the US Department of the Interior released a new report on the national "State of the Birds." The report states that "(b)irds are bellwethers of our natural and cultural health as a nation... The results are sobering: bird populations in many habitats are declining-a warning signal of the failing health of our ecosystems." Considering that conservation efforts have been going on for at least the last 50+ years (since Rachel Carson's Silent Spring), this is indeed a sobering report. Obviously our conservation efforts were too little, too late.

According the Report, 75 million Americans, 1 in every 4 consider themselves birdwatchers. In excess of 50 million are feeding wild birds. In spite of so much interest and support, loss of habitat continues unabated in the rush to develop more land. Natural nesting sites and food resources are lost. To help stop the decline the single most important thing we can do as individuals is restore natural habitat on our own property. Take an active, responsible role in managing your habitat. If you manage property, you are managing habitat and wildlife.

Why Feed Wild Birds?

People are feeding wild birds for a variety of reasons including entertainment, relaxation, observing and/or studying nature, provide meaningful support to local populations, and so on. As stated above, many wild bird populations are declining. Reasons for the declines include habitat loss, environmental degradation, seasonal changes, local weather, climate change, inadequate forage, and so on. Wild birds have a relatively high metabolic rate that requires food on a regular and consistent basis. Many birds die during the winter, during droughts, cold spells, prolonged rains, and any other conditions that reduce the availability of forage leading to stress,weakness, reduced resistance to disease and parasites, and starvation. Feeding wild birds can help sustain populations when natural food supplies are hard to find.

Feeding Preferences of Wild Birds

Whether your goal is just to attract wild birds to a feeding station for your own enjoyment or to provide birds with the minimum nutrients they need for optimum health and reproduction, feeding preferences of birds are very important in determining what type of food products will best meet your needs.

In general, wild birds can be grouped together by the types of feed they eat. This does not necessarily mean that granivores (seed-eaters), for example, eat only seed. Granivores prefer seed to other foods and specific types of seed to others. Since it is rare in nature to find a food that is readily and always available, it is important to remember that most birds select food in order of their preferences.

While there are a number of types of feed, feeding wild birds usually involves only four:

a. Granivores - seed or grain feeders like finches and sparrows. Many seeds and seed mixes are available for

granivores.

b. Frugivores - fruit feeders like tanagers. There are dehydrated fruit products for frugivores.

c. Insectivores - insect feeders like blue birds and woodpeckers. There are a number of live and dehydrated

insect products.

d. Nectarivores - nectar feeders like hummingbirds. There are several commercial nectar diets available.

In addition to the importance of feeding preferences when feeding wild birds, feeding behaviors of wild birds should be considered when selecting feeders. Some wild birds including robins and doves forage on the ground. Others like woodpeckers and nuthatches forage on the bark of trees. Goldfinches and other granivores forage on the seed heads of grasses.

Casual Bird Feeding

The vast majority of people who are feeding wild birds are casual participants. For them feeding wild birds is primarily a part time activity involving offering wild birds treats and enjoying the benefits of watching their behaviors. The casual participant is one who may on impulse, while shopping at the supermarket, grab a bag of seed or a suet cake. They do not feel any responsibility for feeding wild birds anything more then bird candy. Wild birds are free to forage for their own nutritional needs. If your interest in feeding wild birds is casual, there is an entire industry devoted to meeting your needs. The primary function of the products offered is to bait or draw birds to a feeding site designed to provide maximum visibility for your viewing pleasure. All the feed products including seeds, seed mixes, suet products, and other specialty products are formulated for their ability to attract birds. Nutritional value is not a consideration. Seeds, seed mixes, and suet products offer at best incidental, supplemental nutrition. Even if it were possible to formulate a seed mix that met all the nutritional requirements of birds, it would fail because birds will preferentially select only the seeds they like, the most preferred being oil-type sunflower seed. Seed preference studies have demonstrated time after time that, oil-type sunflower seed, white proso millet, and Nyjer® are the preferred seeds of most species of birds that frequent feeders.

Seed Mixes

Seed mixes are best viewed as bird candy. The preferred seeds provide a burst of energy but little nutrition. Birds are like children, they eat what they like rather than what is nutritionally best for them.

In selecting seeds or seed mixes you should consider what seeds are in the mix. The cheaper the seed mix the higher the content of filler seeds like corn, milo, oats, wheat and others that the majority of birds find unpalatable. They usually end up on the ground under the feeding station. There is a growing trend in new housing communities to ban bird feeding because of the seed accumulation under the bird feeder and the pests that they attract. Another factor in the pricing of seeds and seed mixes is the grading of the seeds according to quality and any additional processing like cleaning or dehulling the seeds. Premium seed products are cleaner, contain the best grade of seeds, contain a larger proportion of the most palatable seeds like oil-type sunflower seed, and may be dehulled. The reality is that, with the exception of products that contain a higher percentage of the more palatable seeds, none of these added value, higher priced seed mixes make any difference to the birds. They are primarily for human market appeal. You are far better off buying the three individual seeds; oil-type sunflower seed, white proso millet, and Nyjer®. Even the millet is questionable as it attracts alien, invasive house sparrows which should be discouraged.

Bird feed should never be exposed to rain or direct sun both of which will cause deterioration in nutrients.

Suet

Wild bird suet products [http://www.aviancuisine.com/suet-vs-vegetable-fat] are available in a variety of shapes and formulations. The shapes typically include the standard cake, plugs, balls or "berries", bells, and so on. In addition to plain suet, formulations consist of suet incorporating small amounts of attractants like, berries, fruit, insects, nuts, and seeds to appeal to different wild bird species. While the attractants have a small influence on the kind of wild birds that are attracted to a particular suet product, their real impact is in appealing to human consumers . The primary nutritional component in wild bird suet products is beef fat. It provides energy, which is vital to wild birds. Suet cakes and other suet products attract bark-climbing wild bird species like woodpeckers, nuthatches, and so on. Wild bird suet cakes, like seed and seed mixes may improve survivor rates in the short term and they are very economical. In selecting suet products, the consumer should look for the softest products that will meet the conditions at their feeding station. Softness indicates a relatively low melting temperature. The lower the melting temperature, the easier the product is for wild birds to digest.

Over the past five to ten years there has been a trend among suet processors to develop wild bird suet products with increasingly higher melting temperatures. This is just another marketing scheme that is designed to appeal to human consumers at the expense of the best interests of birds. Do not be fooled. It is in the best interest of wild birds to consume fats that contain the least amount of saturated fats and triglycerides. Wild birds are attracted to fat because of its high energy content. However, birds must expend energy, not only to access and consume fats, but to digest them. The melting temperature of a fat is directly related to its degree of saturation. The higher the saturation, the higher the melting temperature, the more energy necessary to digest it.

Responsible Bird Feeding

The growing awareness that many wild bird populations are in decline has generated a need for a new type of wild bird feeding. One that goes beyond human centered motivations to taking responsibility for the health and welfare of local wild bird populations. The single most important thing we can do as individuals is restore natural habitat on our own property by natural landscaping with native plants that provide both shelter and foods, remove all alien, invasive plants, increasing natural and artificial nesting sites, provide a source of clean fresh water, Take an active, responsible role in managing your habitat and all of the wildlife that live on it; from soil organisms to megafauna. Feeding wild birds responsibly can engender a more wholistic view of their local wild bird populations as well as other local wildlife. If you owner manage property, you are responsible for all the living organisms that occupy it either as transients or permanent residents. You are by definition a habitat/wildlife manager.

Responsible wild bird feeding involves, at a minimum, feeding wild birds nutritionally complete wild bird feed on a year 'round basis, maintaining a source of clean fresh water, using properly designed feeders, keeping feeders and feeding sites clean, Set up a control plan to eliminate alien species like house sparrows and European starlings from your habitat by any means that are ethically acceptable. At the very least destroy their nests and eggs, and keep cats inside . Cats are an introduced alien species and they are proficient predators of birds, small mammals, reptiles, and many other life forms. Capture stray cats that wander onto your property and turn them into the local humane society. Encourage all cat owners to act responsibly by keeping their cats inside for their own safety-coyotes love the taste of cats-and the safety of their potential prey.

Nutritionally Complete Wild Bird Feed

Nutritionally complete wild bird feed products take feeding wild birds to a new level. Nutritionally complete wild bird feed products are complete processed diets formulated to provide birds with all their nutritional needs. Processed diets consist of flours, meals, nutrients, and binders processed into a suitable shape of uniform consistency. They are formulated to meet the minimum nutrient requirements of wild birds based on research by the National Research Council. Veterinarians and animal care professionals recommend processed diets as the main food (50% minimum) for all birds. Since a processed diet is of uniform consistency, birds can not preferentially select what they eat. Nutritionally complete, processed, wild bird diets provide a nutritional safety net for wild birds during periods of poor forage availability. Wild birds with unrestricted access to nutritionally complete, processed, wild bird diets will not experience the nutritional slump associated with winter or other periods of inclement weather that interferes with forage availability. As a result, adult birds will over-winter and initiate nesting activities earlier in the season, will nest more frequently during the season, lay more eggs per nesting, fledge more offspring, and nest later into the season. Over the long run local populations of those species accessing feeding stations will first stabilize and increase.

When feeding nutritionally complete wild bird feed products for the first time, you may encounter reluctance in wild birds to accept the new food. Wild birds are very wary of any change including new and different foods that they may not initially recognize as food. In this case offering oil-type sunflower seed that birds recognize as food along with the processed diet will usually entice them to feed. Once feeding has begun, gradually reduce the oil-type sunflower seed over a period of time. When feeding a nutritionally complete, processed, wild bird diet, it is important to restrict availability of other foods. This particularly applies to seed mixes and suet cakes (bird candies) that are formulated to attract birds for entertainment rather than meeting their nutritional needs. Suet cakes and seed mixes are not nutritionally complete and will dilute the desired effect of complete diets.

Most nutritionally complete, processed, wild bird diets incorporate a binder. A very few use vegetable fat as a binder. From a nutritional point of view, the lower the melting temperature of a fat the easier it is for birds to digest. Vegetable oils are very low in saturated fats and triglycerides so they are preferable to suet or any other binder. It is in the best interests of wild birds to use vegetable fats with the lowest melting temperature that will work in a particular situation or feeder.

Feeding a nutritionally complete diet on a year-round basis expands the food base in an area, thereby improving the overall survival and reproductive rates of many species. In the long run, you will see earlier nesting activity, increased reproduction rates, increased fledging rates, and increased survivorship rates. If you want to make a meaningful contribution to the health and reproduction of local species, you should incorporate nutritionally complete, processed, wild bird diets as a major component of your bird-feeding program.

Conclusion

Suet and seed mixes are of value to wild birds as dietary supplements only. Birds readily recognize seeds as food so seed mixes are best used when establishing a new feeding site . Once birds are feeding at a new site we recommend switching to a nutritionally complete, processed, wild bird diet. Once your feeding site is converted to a nutritionally complete, processed, wild bird diet we recommend feeding seed mixes as a treat in small amounts (no more than can be eaten in one day) on a random, once a week basis.

Nutritionally complete, processed, wild bird diets are a great addition to the struggle to stop population decline in those species that will access them.

Basic Backyard Bird Feeder Guide - Six Feeders You Need to Have

1. Backyard birds have different feeding requirements. Different styles of feeders will attract different and a larger variety of birds to your backyard. These are the basic bird feeders for an all around good backyard bird feeding program:

Seed Tube Bird Feeder: Open port seed tube bird feeders are considered exclusive bird feeders meaning, they exclude many larger birds. These feeders primarily attract a variety of smaller birds. However, when a seed saver tray is added, it will allow larger birds a place to perch and feed.

• Exclusive bird feeder. Excludes larger birds. Primarily feeds smaller birds such as chickadees, finch, and nuthatches.
• Made from a variety of materials. (PVC, Polycarbonate, steel, acrylic) Most PVC and Polycarbonate tubes carry a lifetime guarantee.
• Preferred feed to use is black oil sunflower seed, sunflower hearts, safflower seed, or other nut based mixes.
• Easily hung, but can be post mounted.
• Seed saver trays can be attached to the bottoms.
• A good starter feeder for the backyard

Nyjer Thistle: A very specialized feeder for Nyjer thistle or finch mixes which primarily attracts birds of the finch family such as Goldfinch, House Finch, Purple Finch and Pine Siskin. Indigo Buntings will feed on these feeders if those birds are in your area.

• A tube feeder that is designed for feeding Nyjer thistle, a small imported seed.
• Attracts goldfinch, house finch, pine siskin, purple finch. Indigo buntings and other finch like birds.
• Made from a variety of materials.(PVC, Polycarbonate, steel, acrylic, and wood. PVC and Polycarbonate tubes usually carry a lifetime guarantee.)
• Use Nyjer thistle or a quality finch mix.(Best Finch Mix: 50% Nyjer seed and 50% fine sunflower chips.)
• Hang thistle feeders near small bushes or trees with lower branches.

Hopper Bird Feeders: This is a good all around feeder for attracting a variety of both large and small backyard feeder birds. It is considered a non-exclusive bird feeder since it does not exclude any birds. If the feeding area is large enough occasionally ground feeding birds will feed on this type of feeder, especially if the ground is covered with snow or ice.

• Non-exclusive feeder which attracts both large and small birds.
• Storage capacity for holding quantities of feed.
• Available in a variety of durable materials. (Cedar, metal, recycled plastic, acrylic)
• Recommended feeds: black oil sunflower seed, safflower seed or any nut based mix combination.
• Can be hung or post mounted.
• Good basic backyard bird feeder.

Platform Bird Feeders: Elevated platform bird feeders are another of the non-exclusive bird feeders. It does not exclude any birds. Large and small birds alike can access it very easily along with some birds that typically feed on the ground.

• A non-exclusive bird feeder that is very versatile.
• Can be hung or mounted on a pole or post. Some have a roof to protect the seed from inclement weather. Screen or perforated steel or nylon bottoms prevent water from accumulating in the feeder and helps to dry out seed if it becomes wet.
• Available in a variety of durable materials. (Cedar, metal, recycled plastic and acrylic)
• Recommended feeds: Black oil sunflower seed, safflower seed, sunflower hearts, or any nut based mix combination. Also a good feeder to use with general wild bird mixes.
• Excellent bird feeder for peanuts in the shell, meal worms, and fruits.

Ground Feeders: Ground bird feeders are the perfect feeder for ground foraging birds such as native sparrows, juncos and doves. Also attractive to the more opportunistic birds such as Cardinals and Jays. These feeders keep the bird seed off the ground reducing spoilage. Besides being more sanitary for the birds it is also keeps debris off the ground and is easier to dispose of the shells.

• Ground feeders are just that, feeders which sit on or near to the ground for ground foraging birds such as mourning doves, native sparrows, Juncos, and towhees.
• Screen or perforated bottoms prevent water from standing in the feeder and allows the seed to air dry after rain & snow. Available with or without roofs.
• Use safflower seed and white Proso millet in this feeder which will attract a variety of the birds you prefer while deterring squirrels and the Common Grackles. (A good feeder for general wild bird mixes if squirrels are not a problem.)
• A variety of other birds will also feed at ground level such as northern cardinals and house finch.
• Keeps seed off the ground to prevent spoiling.
• Can be located under an existing feeder to catch seeds dropped by birds.

Suet Bird Feeders: Suet bird feeders using either commercial suets, or suet from your local meat market, provide a great source of year round protein. Placed on or near a tree this feeder will attract Nut Hatches, Brown Creepers, Chickadees, and a variety of woodpeckers. Wrens will occasionally feed on the suet as well. Suet is in high demand for these birds during the spring and summer months.

• Suet is for the birds of the tree trunk zone.
• Commercial suets of 100% rendered beef fat are preferred. There is a large variety of commercial suets which contain various products from seeds and nuts to fruits mixed into 100% tallow.Pure suets, mixtures which do not contain nuts, seed and other products are least attractive to squirrels and European Starlings.
• Feed suet year round. Although it provides a great source of energy during the winter months, birds will actually consume more animal protein between March and August during the stresses of nesting and raising their young. Oftentimes woodpeckers will bring their young to the suet feeder once they have fledged the nest.
• Up-side down suet feeders will help to reduce Starlings from over-powering the feeder. Suet feeders surrounded by cages will repel Starlings as well as squirrels.
• If using a simple hanging wire suet basket, simply leave the hard plastic shell on the suet cake so the suet is only exposed one side. Then hang the basket at a steep angle or directly upside down. If Starlings land on the top they cannot peck through the plastic shell.

2. General wild bird mixes are best placed on or near the ground for ground feeding birds. Reserve elevated feeders for the nuts or nut based mixes. Avoid general bird mixes containing Milo, red millet or wheat. These are filler seeds which bulk up the weight thus lowering the price. While game birds and house sparrows consume these products they are not desired by song birds. Read the label for key ingredients.

3. Thistle seed has an extremely short shelf life of 3 to 5 months. This is the result of heat sterilization of the imported seed by the USDA. This method is used to avoid introducing non-native plants into North America. A newly purchased bag of thistle seed does not guarantee freshness since many merchants may stock large quantities for long periods of time. Songbirds will reject feeders containing old thistle seed is the primary cause in failing to attract birds to a thistle feeder. Inquire about the freshness of the seed you purchase, or purchase from reputable suppliers.

4. To deter squirrels and grackles, use safflower seed by itself in any of the bird feeders with the exception of thistle tube feeders. Safflower seed is attractive to cardinals, house finch, chickadees, doves and other birds, yet grackles rarely feed on it if at all. A feeder filled with safflower seed may be hung in a tree next to a squirrels nest and they will totally ignore it. Make it a part of you feeding program. It may take up to a week for your birds to become accustomed to safflower seed if it has never been offered to them before.

5. Although winter is the traditional bird feeding period, many people have established year round bird feeding programs. Natural foods become scarce after winter until a new crop of seeds and berries ripen in late summer. Wildlife biologists have found that birds nest earlier, quicker, and have more successful nestings when supplemental foods are offered. This is due to less time spent foraging and competing for low food reserves after winter. For example: Woodpeckers during the nesting season eat more suet between March and July than all winter long. You can attract a large variety of birds through-out the year by establishing a year round bird feeding program.

6. Providing a fresh source of water for birds is an important feature during all seasons. Puddles of rain water contain pollutants and toxins that are harmful to birds. In winter, open water is a rare commodity. Searching for water in frigid temperatures can waste precious energy needed to get birds through cold winter nights. And clean feathers provide valuable insulation to help keep them warm. Motion created in water, either by a waterfall or a dripper, attracts high flying birds, and is heard at a great distance.

Parrot Owners - Materials Commonly Used in Bird Toys

WOOD

Birds need to chew, wood is an excellent material to satisfy this natural urge. Birds play most often with wood toys. Wooden toys are meant to be destroyed. Some bird owners may be frustrated by the destructive nature of their parrots. However, chewing is a natural instinct and vital to birds mental and physical well-being. If you provide only acrylic toys they will often find other, more expensive ways to satisfy their chewing needs (i.e., molding, furniture). It is important to know what woods are safe for your bird. Both soft and hardwoods are commonly used in toys.

Safe Woods (not a complete list):

Pine, Balsa, Birch, Basswood, Poplar, Maple, Walnut, Ash, Apple, Elm, Cactus (Cholla) and Manzanita

Unsafe Woods (not a complete list):

Cedar, Red Cherry, Plywood. Oak

If you like to make your own toys NEVER use pressure treated wood, it is treated with arsenic and will poison your bird. If using natural branches make sure they have not been exposed to insecticides. Also, take care to collect branches in areas removed from highways where plant life may have absorbed toxic emissions from cars. Scrub all branches with a non-toxic disinfectant (dilute chlorine bleach), rinse and dry thoroughly.

If you need to clean wood toys, don't soak them. It is best to wipe them clean with a damp cloth or sand the soiled area until clean. If your bird likes to dunk his toys beware that moisture can promote bacterial growth and the toys should either be discarded or thoroughly cleaned and dried in a low temperature oven before returning them to the bird.

Birds are able to distinguish colors therefore color makes wood toys more attractive and interesting to birds. Manufacturers usually color wood with food coloring or vegetable dyes. We don't believe in flavoring wood as the bird should not be encouraged to ingest the wood and, unless properly controlled, the fruit sugars often used provide a perfect medium for bacterial growth. Do not buy toys that have been stained or varnished to add color. If you are interested in a toy with painted parts (ie, ABC blocks) make sure that only non-toxic, child safe paints were used.

ROPE

Several kinds of rope are used in bird toys. Only 100% natural fiber ropes such as cotton, hemp (jute), or sisal should be used in bird toys. Nylon blend ropes should never be used as they can result in serious injury and cuts due to the strength of the strands if the birds get caught in it. Ropes can be safe as long as they are maintained properly and the bird's beak and nails are kept trim. There have been safety problems noted when excessive fraying occurs. Birds have choked and lost circulation to legs by getting tangled in ill maintained ropes. Rope toys have proven very beneficial in solving feather picking problems and therefore we don't like to discount rope as a viable material. Bird owners have a responsibility to check their bird's rope toys daily and to cut back or discard rope toys when they become frayed and present a hazard to their bird.

CHAIN

Chain should have welded not open links. Un-welded chain provides sharp surfaces and narrow openings which have been known to cut toes. Make sure the links are a safe size for your bird, if toes get caught in the links the result can be broken toes or legs. Chain length is also a consideration as a long length of chain could conceivably end up wrapped around a bird's neck during a vigorous play session. As the wood components are chewed off, a chain hazard could develop. Owners must monitor the status of toys and ensure that as they physically change safety hazards do not develop.

FASTENERS

This is a crucial area of concern as good fasteners are expensive and therefore many manufacturers cut corners and use potentially unsafe items such as split key rings or dog leash type snap hooks. Birds have been cut and lost circulation to toes and tongues on toys utilizing split rings and spring type clamps. For conures or larger birds we recommend either Quick-links (also sometimes called C-clamps) or Pear links to attach toys to the bird's play area. They come in a variety of sizes and can be tightened with a wrench easily to prevent the bird from unhooking his toys. This type of fastener provides the least potential for injury. They are available in a variety of sizes and can be purchased from your local hardware store if needed to replace unsafe fasteners from existing toys.

Do not use split key rings, spring loaded clips or metal shower rings to fasten your toys. Small hardware pieces can be ingested accidentally. Birds have cut toes and tongues on split rings and spring type clamps.

ZINC

A lot has been mentioned recently about zinc toxicity in birds. Many bird toys are made with zinc coated (galvanized) metal components. Zinc is also commonly found in cage powder coatings. Some avian health specialists have stated that in order for zinc related health problems to result that the parrot must actually swallow the metal components and that "beaking" the parts is insufficient for toxicity to develop unless the galvanized coating is extremely brittle and flaky. If a bird spends a lot of time chewing on toy hardware (i.e., washers, quick links, wire) then it is possible they will ingest enough zinc to build up toxic levels in their systems over time. Owners who are worried about the possible health effects can often find stainless steel replacement components at their local hardware store. This option is also often much more cost effective to the consumer than buying toys constructed with stainless steel parts.

PLASTICS

Acrylics are used in many toys today and if sized properly to the bird are virtually indestructible. If purchasing acrylic toys we recommend the acrylic have a minimum thickness of 3/16?. Recently, there has been a shift back towards wood toys because although the acrylics are durable and attractive they are also not as fun for the bird who likes to chew. We recommend that a few of your birds toys be acrylic or a blend of acrylic and wood, they will be long lasting and the bright colors used are stimulating to your bird.

When considering toys with plastic components a bird owner must consider the nature of the plastic component (i.e., soft vs. brittle) relative to the size of the bird. Brittle plastics should not be given to larger birds because when they break very sharp, cutting edges are formed and if swallowed accidentally could result in ruptured organs. Hard plastic toys specifically designed for parakeets and cockatiels should not be given to larger birds with the beak power to destroy them.

LEATHER

Leather is a great material for birds to safely play with and chew on. Most birds especially like to spend hours untying knots made in leather strips.

Only vegetable tanned leather should be used on bird toys. Do not buy toys with dyed leather or leather tanned with chemicals as most are toxic to birds (i.e., chromium, formaldehyde). For this reason you should also not retire old shoes, belts and pocketbooks to your birds toy chest.

Replace leather if soiled or wet. Bacteria will flourish under these conditions. Many toy companies will sell replacement leather strips.

When hanging toys strung on leather (or rope or chain), avoid leaving a long strand between the toy and the cage. Some birds when rambunctious with their toys can get the leather wrapped around their necks and strangle. It is best to tie the toy close to the bars of the cage.

RINGS

When choosing toys with rings or large plastic chain links make sure that the rings are of a size that the bird can't get his head stuck in them and choke. Also beware of toys with multiple rings looped directly together as birds have met similar fates when they have been trapped between the rings.

BELLS

Birds love to make noise and bells provide a fun source for their merrymaking. If a bird is mechanically inclined and can remove the clapper the potential exists for swallowing/choking. Make sure the bell clapper can not be removed by the bird. If it is not securely fastened either remove it or weld it (we recommend silver solder). Make sure the clapper is not lead (toxic), if it is lead you will be able to dent the clapper with your fingernail. Do not buys toys that use jingle type bells, toes can become caught and cut in the wide to narrow openings, we recommend the cow or liberty bell design. Appropriately size the bell to the bird so it will be able to withstand the power of the beak.

FINAL CONSIDERATIONS

Just because the label says the product is safe doesn't mean that it's OK for your bird. Any toy has the potential to be unsafe if improperly sized to the bird. Ask your toy vendor or bird store owner for help or advice on choosing a toy appropriate for your bird.

As with kids, no toy is 100% safe for all birds. Use common sense and supervise your bird when you first give him a new toy. Observe how he interacts with the toy to determine how best to hang it and where and when to allow him to play with it (some toys are safer outside the cage).

Provide a wide variety of toys and rotate them in and out of the cage or play area. Variety will help alleviate boredom and keep your bird more alert and curious. Keep 2-3 toys minimum in the birds cage and don't overstuff the cage so the bird doesn't have room to move.

Don't assume that if your bird doesn't like a toy that it won't play with any toy. Try something different and take the time to observe what your bird finds interesting in terms of design, texture or size.

Introduce toys to baby birds but make them small...don't intimidate them. Hand toys are some of the safest toys available and they are especially great for young birds as they help to develop hand-eye coordination.

Play with your bird...most birds think it's great fun to chase balls across the floor or couch, play "catch" or "pick it up" with mom or dad.

This guide is by no means comprehensive but we have tried to address as many issues as possible. When in doubt, ask for help. We sincerely wish you a long, happy and healthy relationship with your bird.

Bird Screaming Problem

How can I stop my bird from screaming so much?

Many people write me and ask if I can help them with their bird screaming problems. Some birds seem to constantly scream or when they do scream, they do it for minutes at a time. To us there doesn't seem to be a reason, but there really is a reason or the bird would not be screaming.

There are just too many reasons for bird screaming problems to cover everything here. I thought it best to highlight some of the things I have learned and then just present some ideas that might help stop some bird screaming behaviors.

If you are reading this article in hopes of finding a solution to stop all bird screaming, you will not find it here or anywhere. Most birds scream sometime, they are meant to scream and will always find a time to scream if they are healthy.

When is bird screaming normal?

The most common bird screaming time is early morning when the sun starts to rise and in the evening as the sun starts to set. It seems to just be built into birds to greet the sun and then tell it good night.

In reality, we are their flock and they want to make sure all the flock is in there with them when they wake up and then announce that it's getting time to eat the evening meal and again that it is time find a roost for the night.

Instead of getting upset with your bird's natural instinct, plan on it and even encourage it. Maybe even join them and become a part of the flock. (It can really be quite fun!) You won't notice how loud they are when you join in too.

What about the other bird screaming times?

For all the other bird screaming times, you will have to put on your investigator hat and get out your pad and pen. Start paying close attention to exactly what happens before, during and after your bird vocalizes.

If you are really trying to solve a bird screaming issue that is threatening the relationship with your bird, you might even want to spend an entire day at home for this very purpose.

You will need to go about your normal routine and not give the bird any unusual attention to get to the root of the problem. You may have to do this several different days in some cases.

The bird screaming log

Have a log ready for writing on. In the margin of the log put the time of day, and draw three lines down the middle of the page. At the top of each column write, "Before", "During", and "After" so that you can keep up with the bird screaming events.

Then when the bird starts screaming, note what was going on just before the bird screaming began. For instance, "I'm on computer, husband in kitchen and kids outside in yard in view of parrot."

During the screaming, do and/or say what you normally do during the bird screaming events in your house. Write down exactly what everyone does or continues to do during each screaming session. When the bird screaming session ends, write down what everyone was doing and or saying when the bird quit screaming. Don't leave anything out, every detail is important.

Continue to do this every single time there is a screaming session for the whole day, if you choose to try doing this in a whole day, or for several days when you are around the bird.

What to do with your bird screaming journal

Now that you have all these notes on your bird screaming sessions, what are you to do with them? You will be amazed sometimes at the patterns you will find. Because no two households are alike, I will not be able to help you specifically with your bird here, but I can help you look at your situation.

Read down the first column and note any consistencies. Such as, finding that many of the times that the bird started screaming someone was in the kitchen, or someone was dialing the phone. Do the same with the other columns. Then think about what you or others might do differently to help stop the bird from screaming in the first place.

How I stopped our bird screaming sessions

I have a couple of Green Cheeked Conures that used to give us grief several times a day with bird screaming sessions. One day we finally decided it was driving us crazy enough that we would take the time to figure out what was causing it.

At first we would just be careful not to reward the screaming behavior. When they would start the screaming session, we would pretend we didn't see or hear them. This does work in a few cases, but usually you need to figure out what your bird really wants and avoid the issue instead of ignoring the issue.

After taking note of what we were doing, where everyone was located in the house, and where the birds were in reference to our locations, we quickly discovered the problem from our birds' point of view.
Most of the times that our birds had screaming sessions, there was someone was in the kitchen, or someone had disappeared from site. Most of the time, one of us was in the kitchen when the bird screaming began.

We solved 80% of our bird screaming problem by taking the birds to the dining room stand, next to the kitchen, when one of us were going to be in the kitchen for more than a few minutes. When we did this, they did not scream. When we forgot, they would scream the entire time.

Our birds thought part of the flock was feeding on something and they were being left out. By taking them to the play stand in the dining room and giving them some healthy treats, they felt like they were foraging right along with the other flock member.

When we forgot and the bird screaming problem came about, we would get whoever was in the kitchen to leave the kitchen without acknowledging the birds and not go back until the birds quit screaming. Then we would move them to the play stand and the person could return to the kitchen.

We did this in that order so that the birds did not get rewarded for their bird screaming session. We don't want them to think that they can start screaming and get us to come and get them. By waiting until they were quiet to come and get them, they did not get any rewards.

How to use your bird screaming journal to help you

Once you find some patterns, and there may be a lot more than one issue that bothers your bird, you will want to come up with solutions to head off the bird screaming situations.

Think of ways to prevent the situation that makes the bird screaming begin. For example, move the cage to where everyone is, spend time with the bird a few minutes every hour, provide foraging activities, have short bird training sessions to help the bird get some rewards for pleasing you. Clicker training is a great help sometimes.

Reinforce all good behaviors. Lavish attention on the bird when it is quiet, playing with toys, eating its healthy treats, and doing behaviors you want to continue.

Consider some bird training techniques. Clicker training has helped many people stop bird screaming behavior. Even teaching the bird to step up or wave can help. Spending time with your bird every day, doing bird training, and then following that up with some healthy treats in their bowl, will often satisfy the bird for quite a while.

There is so much more I could write on this subject, but this article would become a bird screaming book instead of a bird screaming article if I did.

Here is a short list of some things that I have found to cause bird screaming problems:

o Hormonal times

o Allergies to peanuts

o Allergies to artificial vitamins

o Allergies to chemicals and food coloring in food

o Other food allergies

o Lack of attention

o Being left out of "flock" activities

o Needing to go to bed

o Wanting more food or water

o Wanting a bath when hearing water run or rain outside

o Boredom, needing new toys, training, or foraging activities

o Loneliness

o Perceived danger for themselves or the "flock"

o Wanting peace and quiet

o Dislike of someone that has offended them

o Jealousy

o "Flock" member leaving the room or house

o "Flock" member returning and not joining them

o "Flock" eating without them or not sharing their food

o Change of diet, wishing for what they are used to eating

And the list goes on and on!

Some ideas for avoiding bird screaming

Clicker Training for Birds can help bird screaming problems fade away and be replaced with positive behaviors you want to encourage.

Getting a full spectrum light for your birds can make a real difference in your birds' attitude and health. I explain the importance of full spectrum lighting on the Parrot and Conure World site.

Purchase pellets and mixes that are free of peanuts, artificial vitamins and additives. Many birds have stopped irritating bird screaming behaviors just by removing one or more of these items from their diet.